Riccardo Tisci Makes His Mark on Burberry
Burberry’s new emblem is reflective of the #NewEra heralded in by the appointment of Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci as their new chief creative officer: fresh, bold, and fierce. The Italian superstar designer’s first collection with Burberry for Spring/Summer 2019 is hot off the press of London Fashion Week and the critical consensus is out—it’s gold. Well, actually—beige. Tisci sent 134 looks down the runway, with a monochrome palette that pivoted around Burberry’s signature muted tones. As the show progressed, so did the colour spectrum, with corals, mints and reds making their presence felt. The designer demonstrated his remarkable talent for versatility with a full showing of both men’s and women’s wear with pieces for every occasion from work to evening. While it was clear that the spirit of Givenchy haunted this new Burberry collection, Tisci orchestrated each look so that the English refinery quintessential to Burberry was still centre stage. While there was a definite edge to the collection that is new to the Burberry line, models such as Irina Shayk and Lily Donaldson sashayed down the catwalk with their hair slicked back in the classic tradition of the English rose. Echoes of Tisci’s student days at Central Saint Martins in the 90’s reverberated on the stage with a soundtrack courtesy of Massive Attack’s Robert Del Naja.
With a breath of fresh air injected by Tisci, the British fashion house demonstrated its relevance in full swing. These are our picks for the best looks of the show.
For this look, Tisci took a Burberry icon—the trench coat in their trademark Nova Check—and gave it an attitude. Sporting new bold black accents, the genteel staple was infused with a bit of toughness for the street. Thrown over a polka-dotted lace bustier and a printed graphic midi reminiscent of the Givenchy rocker aesthetic, the outfit was delicately balanced out by the muted brown kitten heels. Elegant, and very chic.
You wouldn’t normally equate a suit with “casually shrugged on”, but that was precisely the vibe channelled above. The rebellious coral was tinged with the beige undertones that resonated throughout the entire collection, but the two-piece owned its own distinctive hue that refreshed the colour palette on stage. With its baggy silhouette, the jacket fell lazily over a simple white shirt while the matching too-big pants devoured half the accompanying trainers, making the outfit decidedly street-worthy.
Of course, we had to include the Kendall Jenner look. The supermodel made her first appearance at London Fashion Week after months of notable absence from international catwalks. Resplendent in beige from head-to-toe, Kendall paid tribute to Burberry’s heritage while epitomising the modern woman in a sleek pantsuit and sensibly stylish mules. Always bringing the cool factor, she donned an updated version of the signature Burberry trench embellished with gold hardware.
While the smart silhouette of the cream blazer distinguishes this look as Burberry’s, the accompanying wide belt and intentionally-clumsy hardware add panache. Paired with clunky black Mary Janes and schoolgirl socks, and thrown over a barely-there mini, we see this look on the urban sophisticate who is always on the go.
Earlier this month, Burberry announced their commitment to stop using fur. A cheeky testament to the newly-minted decision, animal prints were a leitmotif on the runway, with slogans such as “COW” or “WHY DID THEY KILL BAMBI” splashed across many of the looks. The relaxed cut and casual collar of the shirt complement its oversized pockets and warring prints, and the savvy decision to match it with track pants create a louche effect. No one wants to look like they are trying too hard.
Perhaps one of the looks most faithful to the original Burberry aesthetic, this outfit serves as a reminder that elegance is not dead. The red and beige contrast beautifully and work harmoniously, with the crimson blouse injecting a touch of moxie to the earth-toned demure number. The structured handbag is no-nonsense without comprising on style, sending a clear message: she means business. Make way for the lady boss.
Images credits: Burberry