Ulysse Nardin: Jade Lionfish
The beautiful marriage of style and substance. When it was first introduced in 2013 Jade represented several firsts in Haute Horlogerie. Its UN-310 calibre was the first movement to be designed and produced in-house by Ulysse Nardin specifically for a woman’s watch. And it was the first timepiece to take into account a woman’s delicate manicure when manipulating the settings. How? With its innovative crown design: no pulling is required to wind the watch, set the time, or adjust the date backwards or forwards, only a simple turn. A dainty crown position indicator on the dial shows the wearer which setting she is adjusting.
Ulysse Nardin has created a unique “Cloisonné” enamel timepiece in rose gold that displays all the craftsmanship of the Donzé Cadrans enamel specialists with a magical marine-inspired design.
The Cloisonné is an enamelling technique in which the outline of the dial designs is produced first on paper and then on the dial itself. Extremely fine strips of gold wire measuring only 0.07 mm wide (no larger than a human hair) are hand bent, applied and glued to the outline using two pliers. The individual cells that give the image detail, dimension and nuance are also formed by gold wire and placed within the outline. Colours are then picked out for each cell in order to create the cloister effect.
Five layers of enamel are applied to the cloisonné dial with a brush; all coloured cells filled in and baked (800-1200 degrees celsius) in the kiln for a total of five times or more. If needed. Then come the surfacing step before the polishing the dial with a file. These multiple levels of colour create the sense of depth and three dimensions that make the enamel dials come to life. While it appears wonderfully decorative, set with 56 diamonds, Jade has a deeply practical side, as its crown design attests. Its movement incorporates Silicium components for enhanced precision and durability. It boasts antireflective sapphire crystal and case back and a water resistance to 30 meters.